Superior Instructions

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS “SUPERIOR”


Positions of Fillers and Drains etc.

The cab roof slides back to give access to all fillers.

The gas tank is in the front nearside corner of the cab, the gas-filling valve is on the top of the gas tank turret. The gas control valve is attached to this turret, and can be operated through the nearside cab doorway.

The lubricator is in the offside front of the cab, just forward of the doorway and the reverse lever. The filler cap has a “T” bar in it to aid removal. The lubricator drain is directly beneath the lubricator. To drain, un-screw the drain valve through about ½ a turn.

The boiler water filler is on top of the steam turret on the boiler in the middle of the cab. Undo the knurled cap to fill with water. The main steam regulator valve is the wheel valve on the rear of the boiler-filling turret.

The water level check valve is under the footplate, just in front of the nearside cab step. To open the valve, turn the lever through about one turn.

The direction control is the lever in the offside cab door. To operate, pull gently outwards and move to the desired direction. The control is “gated”, and will therefore hold itself in the full forward or reverse position.


Preparation for Running

Always service the engine in the following order; first gas, then oil, then water.

To fill the gas tank: invert the gas can and apply the nipple to the gas inlet valve on the top of the tank turret. It is advisable to support the loco under the gas tank whilst filling, to prevent the engine tipping over. You will know when the tank is full; gas will blow back from the inlet valve in a strong jet. A small amount of gas and air will escape during filling, but the difference between this and when the tank is full is always clear. Always keep the gas can vertical when filling the gas tank.

Filling the lubricator: as you will read in the instructions for the end of the run, the lubricator should be empty of oil and water with the valve left in the open position. Now close the valve and remove the lubricator filler cap. Fill up the lubricator with steam oil to about a ¼ inch below the top. Leave the filler cap off for the present, so that any trapped air can escape. Remember to refit the cap after you have filled up the boiler.

To fill the boiler: remove the filler cap and also open the water level check valve. Leave the check valve open whilst raising steam. Fill up the boiler completely – ideally using distilled water using the large syringe provided. Replace the boiler filler cap, check that the lubricator does not need topping up, and then replace its filler cap also. Filler caps should be firm finger tight. They are sealed with a trapped ‘O’ ring and, therefore should not be over-tightened.


Lighting Up

Open the smokebox door; just pull it open by the door handle. Light your lighter/match etc. and gently open the gas control valve until a gentle hiss is heard in the burner. Apply your light into the smokebox and the flame should ‘pop’ down the fire tube and ignite the burner inside the fire tube. If the gas valve is opened too much the flame will not pop back; it will either fail to ignite, will roar in flame out of the smokebox, or there will be a ball of flame around the front of the engine, which will then blow the whole fire out (after giving the driver a fright)! When the fire sound has stabilised, after about 30 seconds the gas can be turned up until a healthy roar is heard. The smoke box door may be shut after about two minutes. Now leave the locomotive to raise steam. When pressure starts to rise, water will be seen running out of the water level check valve. When the water reaches its correct level the running water will be replaced by steam. When steam comes out in a regular stream, screw shut the check valve and let the locomotive raise at least 40 psi.


Running

When the engine has raised about 40 psi, you are ready to start running. It is advisable to run the engine in reverse first; it clears the condensed water from the cylinders best this way. Before commencing your first run of the day, it is advisable to put a cloth loosely over the chimney for a few minutes, as condensed water will be ejected from the chimney. This is quite normal; the motion of the engine will be jerky until all condensate has been ejected. DO NOT stand over the chimney as ejected boiling water/steam could cause serious scalding.

Place the direction lever into the reverse position, and then open the main steam valve. The engine should start to move off in the reverse direction. When starting from cold it will be jerky, this is normal, as it has to clear the condensate from the system. The more the main steam valve is opened, the faster the engine will go; our advise is to start slowly and learn the road with your engine.
After a minute or so, remove the cloth and continue running. In running it is correct practice to balance the boiler pressure against the load being pulled and the track conditions. With a light load and level track the pressure may need to be only 25-30 p.s.i. therefore, turn the gas control down to keep this pressure. When running a heavy train with steep gradients, increase the pressure by turning up the gas. The ideal running pressure can be learnt by experience and is one of the pleasures of running a live steam engine. There is no need to have the safety valve constantly blowing off (it is what its name implies – a safety vent for excess steam pressure). In all our designs, the gas has been programmed to run out just before the water, thus it is important not to refill with gas alone in order to lengthen the run by a few minutes. When the gas runs out a complete gas, oil and water service must be done (remember GOW, also remember to shut the gas regulator before refilling, and DO NOT refill with gas near any other live steam loco). When the locomotive slows as the pressure falls at the end of a run, stop the engine. Gently open the lubricator valve and blow out any condensed water. If you intend to continue running, close the drain when you see oil coming out of it and carry out a general refill. If it is the last run of the day, leave the lubricator drain valve open and blow the lubricator completely clean.


End of Run

As previously mentioned, the locomotive will slow (due to pressure dropping) when the fire has gone out. Stop at a convenient place and open the lubricator drain valve. Blow out all condensed water and the remaining oil. Leave the drain valve open and allow all the remaining steam to blow out. The locomotive should be allowed to cool. When cool, clean the engine, check the motion and oil if necessary. The locomotive should always be put away in a clean condition as it attracts less dust and is always ready for the next run (or to be shown to an admiring friend). Always leave the lubricator drain valve and the water level check valve open so that the boiler will not be strained if subject to any temperature change. It is advisable to store the loco where any residual drips of oil or water do not matter.
Blocked Gas Jets
If the gas jet becomes blocked with particles of dirt within the gas, the jet will have to be removed and cleaned. With a spanner or pliers carefully undo the pipe union on the gas control valve. Remove the pipe and jet holder assembly from the burner. Holding the jet holder gently in a vice, unscrew the jet. To clear, place the jet nozzle against the inverted gas can nozzle and clear the jet with a blast of gas. Under no circumstances use a pricker wire, this will damage the jet hole. Replace the jet in the holder, ideally using a thread sealant sparingly on the threads. Ensure it is tightened up firmly. Replace the assembly into the burner and re-connect the pipe to the control valve. Ensure this is done up tightly, test CAREFULLY with a flame and the gas “just on”, for gas leaks. Tighten if required.


Gauge Changing

All “Superior” locomotives are supplied set to 45mm gauge, but a “gauge change” kit is supplied with each engine. This will allow you to run on either 32mm or 45mm gauge track. All wheels are insulated as standard. To change the gauge, lay the engine gently on its side, on a thick cloth. First change the driving wheels gauge, by loosening all the grub screws in the boss on the back of the wheels, using the Allen key provided. The axles are dimpled for each gauge, so you do not have to measure for the right gauge. Slide the wheels to the gauge required and tighten up the grub screws. These should be checked as a routine at the start of each running session. To change the pony truck, another set of wheels is supplied. With the nut runner supplied, undo the hexagon headed bolts holding the axle carrier bearings to the flat pony truck arm. Remove the complete wheelset assembly and replace with the desired set. Ensure the hexagon headed bolts are replaced firmly, but do not over tighten, as this might strip the threads.